I was just sitting on our little balcony
looking at the Danube and listening to the rolling thunder and wondering if
one could get hit by lightning from where I was sitting. There has
been no actual lightning, but just to be safe, I decided to come in.
We had a kind of mini duck incident this
morning. A family of ducks seemed to be trapped between the boat and
the wall against which we were docking.
They seemed to be swimming back and forth
looking for a way out. I was afraid the boat would smush them, but
Char assured me that there was a shelf there and that the boat couldn't get
close enough to hurt them. Nevertheless, I was relieved to see that
"pressed duck" was not on the menu today!
Today's itinerary included a walking tour of
another little medieval town, Regensberg. It sounded a lot like
yesterday, with more hills, cobblestones, narrow lanes, and steps. I
knew there would be different hills, cobblestones, narrow lanes, and
steps, and a different cathedral (this one is not named for St.
Stephan, for example) but I decided to skip the tour. Hearing Char's
report later of how things had been, and how much her legs were hurting, I
think I'm glad to have remained on the ship.
I took a nap, took a long shower, and spent a
lot of time up in the lounge reading until the others came back.
I was so rested and refreshed that I decided
to go with Mike and Walt and a small group of other passengers to a local
beer garden, with a Viking guide. I was glad to have made the walk (my
legs felt fine by then) because I got to see some of the town, including
this historic food stand.
Apparently there has been a restaurant at
this site, serving people traveling through Regensberg since the time of the
crusades in the 11th century which would make this one of, if not THE first
fast food joint. I've been calling it McBratwurst.
McBrat sits alongside the stone bridge that
crosses the Danube.
The bridge was completed in 1146 and opened
major international trade routes between Northern Europe and Venice.
This started Regensburg's golden age as a city of wealthy trading families.
Regensburg became the cultural centre of southern Germany and was celebrated
for its gold work and fabrics.
We crossed the bridge and went to a little
beer garden on the other side.
Unfortunately it had started to rain, so by
the time Walt and I arrived, most of the group was inside. I was hoping we
could sit outside under umbrellas, as some others were doing, but we stayed
inside and had our beer. Lovely view of the bridge and the cathedral
from inside, though.
In the afternoon there was a talk about this
waterway system we are traveling through. It's fascinating. We are
right now in The Bavarian Canal, an idea which was conceived and actually
built in its original format by Charlemagne, who understood that the
lack of a way to move things across this stretch land was holding everything
back. He began work on his canal in 793. It was then called the "Fossa
Carolina."
Bavarian King Ludwig built on it and
completed the first navigable canal between the Main and the Danube in 1845.
It ran 111 miles from Bamberg to Kelheim and contained 101 sets of locks,
each of which was 98 ft. long and 53 ft. wide. It was only 5 ft. deep.
Though it took forever to navigate, ships used it up until 1949.
The current canal was started in 1960 and
completed in 1992. It is 106 miles long, 180 feet wide and 13-14 feet
deep. There are only 67 locks.
Today we went under a few of those very, very
low bridges and not only have they lowered things, they have actually
removed everything on the deck, including the guard rails (so passengers not
allowed on the upper deck). We went under one bridge so low I thought
it was going to scrape the top of the restaurant...and we are on the MIDDLE
floor!
Dinner, as always, was delicious:
Started with bruscetta, then yellow bell
pepper potage with chicken dumpling and crayfish tails (2. tiny). The
Osso Bocco was the star...so tender you could cut it with a fork, and I even
ate the marrow. Dessert was Marscapone Creme and Sweet Crumble with
rhubarb stew.
Tomorrow is Nuremberg. Mike, Char and
Walt have signed up to go on the optional World War II tour. I'm
taking the regular town tour and hoping I can keep up, without Walt standing
back and waiting for me!
This is the first time I have not been able to connect to
the internet. I wonder how long it's going to take before I get a
connection...
Oh. We were in a lock, that's why!
This is a narrow lock--you can touch it from our balcony.
2 comments:
Fast food: did you know the Russian word for fast is bistro?
I'm loving your skipping the tours of yet another similar town/cathedral, but getting out and wandering around on your own. That's what we love to do. I wish we had had more of an opportunity to do that on our recent trip. Or maybe it was that we just didn't think of it soon enough.
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